Penton Owners Group
Penton Owners Group
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ
Username:
Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

 All Forums
 General Discussion
 Penton Talk
 V1675
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Previous Page | Next Page
Author Previous Topic Topic Next Topic
Page: of 3

BILL CAMPBELL
Advanced Member

Australia
164 Posts

Posted - 11/09/2012 :  05:49:15 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks guys for the heads up. I don't know where I got the idea it had to be a long seat. It must have been my post 75 brain at work. A short seat would definitely make it different to my other bikes. Once again thanks - the photos are brilliant and great for future reference. Cheers Bill
Go to Top of Page

Fred Deagostino
Advanced Member

USA
116 Posts

Posted - 05/19/2013 :  10:18:55 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Greetings all. This is a very helpful thread. I'm about to take my seat out for it's redo. and this is kind of a sanity check with you guys beforehand.
V416 is the short seat w/alum. pan. ala checkcrew's v1646 and Dale Fisher's bike shown here in the pics.
I could swear mine was a smooth seat though, and if I understand correctly both were used. If so, I'd go with the smooth.
I'm going to print these pics to take to the upholsterer for a panel/stitch example.
I was just wondering if I've got everything covered (no pun intended) before I make that move so I thought I'd run it past you guys for anything I may be missing. 'Collective thoughts? Fred

V416 OneMoreTime
Go to Top of Page

gooddirt
Advanced Member

USA
1246 Posts

Posted - 05/19/2013 :  6:43:01 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I ended up doing the smooth type /flatter foam that the early ST had. This seat type can be seen on various photos. Shaped my own foam from a blank and used a belt sander .
Go to Top of Page

Fred Deagostino
Advanced Member

USA
116 Posts

Posted - 05/20/2013 :  07:31:35 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Gooddirt, that's pretty much the pat on the head I was looking for. The seat on Mike's Berkshire is the way I remember mine from all those years ago. I know it was flat on top as opposed to the pic of the original ribbed seat in the prior post. Also, I didn't recall their being a seam running around the whole top. To support that further, the one old poor picture I have of V416 from back around '71 shows where I'd duct taped a split at the rear corner/side, right where that diagonal seam would have been.
I'm probably making a bit too much of this kind of thing but I'm trying go get it as close as I can to original. It'll cost the same $ to get it wrong.
Thanks again. I hope to see the Upholsterer today and maybe get this detail in process. Cheers..., Fred


V416 OneMoreTime
Go to Top of Page

BILL CAMPBELL
Advanced Member

Australia
164 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2013 :  07:34:12 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have just seen some new aluminium fenders on Parmabike's website that he says are for 71 to 73 Pentons. Are these the same for my 69 steel tanker and if not what are the differences? Cheers
Go to Top of Page

Dale Fisher
Advanced Member

USA
1492 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2013 :  7:46:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
No, the rear fender is too short. This set is for the CMF framed bikes. Take a good look at the measurements. Since mine came with no fenders to measure off I purchased a set from Roberto only to be disappointed. They are now tucked away for one of my other bikes

Dale Fisher
Penton Owners Group - Memberships
Facebook - Cheney Twinshock Racing Group - Administrator

'70 Six-Day 125 - V2017
'71 Six-Day 125 (Dave Fisher's) - V5553
'72 Mudlark - W257
'73 Jackpiner - 175 21159727
'74 Berkshire 100 - 40171056
And some silly other bikes...

Edited by - Dale Fisher on 07/04/2013 06:35:01 AM
Go to Top of Page

BILL CAMPBELL
Advanced Member

Australia
164 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2013 :  9:25:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Dale
Go to Top of Page

BILL CAMPBELL
Advanced Member

Australia
164 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2013 :  07:11:35 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Have started to to pull down my Penton. The engine is out of the frame and I have the head off. The barrel will not move after some gentle taps with a wooden mallet. I am worried about breaking the cast iron fins so I am asking for a safe method to get the barrel off. Bore looks pretty good considering and piston moves freely.Just another question of many to come. Thanks in advance
Bill
Go to Top of Page

Jeff D
Advanced Member

USA
569 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2013 :  09:41:06 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bill, if the piston is seized and preventing the cylinder from coming off, put your favorite penetrating oil in the top and be patient. I think I read someplace that a 50/50 mix of acetone (nail polish remover) and ATF works better than the commercial offerings like Liquid Wrench, Aerokroil, etc., but the main point is to be patient and let the stuff work its way down. I had a 500 Yankee that was seized like that and I put oil in every night and gave the pistons a few taps with a wooden drift. It took over a week, but they finally came loose.

Jeff DeBell
Go to Top of Page

Jeff D
Advanced Member

USA
569 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2013 :  09:43:02 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Forgot to mention that diesel fuel also works very well for this application. Figured I'd better add that one in before Onkel Speedy Clasen scolded me for forgetting it :)

Jeff DeBell
Go to Top of Page

Jeff D
Advanced Member

USA
569 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2013 :  4:23:06 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Oops, should have read your post a bit closer...did not realize the piston was not stuck. You can still try drizzling penetrant around the cylinder/case junction to help free it up as well as down the cylinder stud holes.

Jeff DeBell
Go to Top of Page

Daniel P. McEntee
Advanced Member

439 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2013 :  5:01:14 PM  Show Profile  Send Daniel P. McEntee a Yahoo! Message  Reply with Quote
The base gasket is probably glueing the cylinder down. Take a putty knife that is sharpened to a sharp edge and run it around the base joint, just below the cylinder. let some penetrating oil work it's way down the cylinder studs also. Like Jeff said, patience is the key here. A lt of gentle force over a period of time is better that just wailing on it with a hammer. In thinking about it, it may be some rust on the cylinder studs bonding and binding with the holes in the cylinder. Lots of oil, and maybe even some heat from a small torch or hear gun to let things expand and contract to help break it loose. Add in the putty knife action as you go. That will put some upward pressure on everything to help break it loose. Remember, slow and easy and patience is the key!
Good luck and have fun,
Dan McEntee
Go to Top of Page

BILL CAMPBELL
Advanced Member

Australia
164 Posts

Posted - 07/21/2013 :  10:04:51 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks again guys. Have soaked the barrel a bit but leave for a two week holiday. Will see how it goes when I get back. Holiday includes a vinduro on either my Hare Scrambler or MC5 next weekend.
Go to Top of Page

BILL CAMPBELL
Advanced Member

Australia
164 Posts

Posted - 08/07/2013 :  04:17:11 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi guys.Roberto has got some more aluminium fenders with a pair for steel tankers at $299.Are these ok for my Penton. Cheers Bill
Go to Top of Page

checkcrew
Advanced Member

USA
643 Posts

Posted - 08/07/2013 :  06:48:38 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Bill,

email Roberto and ask him to give you the total length of the rear fenders, if the one posted for the S/T is a good bit longer it should work,
let us know,

regards,

Mike Gallagher, NJ.
mktm400exc@aol.com
Go to Top of Page
Page: of 3 Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
Previous Page | Next Page
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Jump To:
Penton Owners Group © 2001-2015 Penton Owners Group. All Rights Reserved Go To Top Of Page
Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000 Version 3.4.06