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Dale Fisher
Advanced Member

USA
1532 Posts

Posted - 08/07/2013 :  07:43:39 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The last listing I looked at included the measurements. I only glanced but they looked appropriate. Note that you can contact him directly via email and receive a member discount and save on the pricing. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1971-Penton-MC-GS-100-125-Six-Day-ALUMINUM-FRONT-REAR-FENDER-KTM-MUD-GUARD-/271253724165?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f27fb5c05&vxp=mtr

parmabike@yahoo.com or parmamoto@yahoo.com

Dale Fisher
Penton Owners Group - Memberships
Facebook - Cheney Twinshock Racing Group - Administrator

'70 Six-Day 125 - V2017
'71 Six-Day 125 (Dave Fisher's) - V5553
'72 Mudlark - W257
'73 Jackpiner - 175 21159727
'74 Berkshire 100 - 40171056
And some silly other bikes...

Edited by - Dale Fisher on 08/07/2013 07:45:08 AM
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BILL CAMPBELL
Advanced Member

Australia
165 Posts

Posted - 09/14/2013 :  05:32:14 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I now have the frame all stripped down. It took awhile to get the tank rubbers out of the frame as I had to improvise with pullers.Swingarm bolt was rusted in but eventually got it out.I have got the barrel off the motor. Piston is soso bore sort of rusty and the head has been pocked by blown rings or bearings before the piston was put in. Forks are seized in their sliders but that is a problem to be tackled further down the track. Next is to split the motor and learn about the gearbox etc. Looking forward to it.
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BILL CAMPBELL
Advanced Member

Australia
165 Posts

Posted - 09/21/2013 :  05:40:36 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Is the bracket on the swingarm for the chain guard straight or does it have a slight bend in it? Cheers
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gooddirt
Advanced Member

USA
1247 Posts

Posted - 09/23/2013 :  3:00:16 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The three swingarms that I have all have the bend , when the chain guard is bolted on it will flex to clear the tire ; as there is not much clearance for the tire.
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BILL CAMPBELL
Advanced Member

Australia
165 Posts

Posted - 09/24/2013 :  08:52:05 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks GD
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BILL CAMPBELL
Advanced Member

Australia
165 Posts

Posted - 01/30/2014 :  07:06:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I am now ready to powdercoat the frame etc. I know there have been references to paint colours/codes in other topics but can somebody tell me what they think is the closest powder coat colour to use. If there is one readily available can you please tell me how I can get some shipped to Australia. ps just got a 400 MC5 to restore. Not sure which way to look in the shed at the moment. Oh the dilemma!
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BILL CAMPBELL
Advanced Member

Australia
165 Posts

Posted - 08/16/2017 :  07:55:06 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Finally after 3 years I am recommencing the resto.Now comes all the silly questions starting with.. I need a new big end pin and Al B says he doesn't have any. Is there another pin eg Wiseco that I can use even if the ends need to be ground down. The other question is I am after some stainless steel spokes for the ST. Can somebody tell me if they are available and from whom. Cheers Bill
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ALB
Advanced Member

USA
357 Posts

Posted - 08/16/2017 :  09:59:53 AM  Show Profile  Visit ALB's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Bill,

I found a 54.5 tapered crank pin for the Sachs "A" engine. I have sent you and e-mail confirming this and have it on reserve for you.

Alan Buehner
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BILL CAMPBELL
Advanced Member

Australia
165 Posts

Posted - 09/11/2017 :  02:14:27 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi. What can you guys tell me about the DCPlastics Steel Tanker seat base. Is it reasonable
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G Ellis
Advanced Member

USA
876 Posts

Posted - 09/11/2017 :  09:07:24 AM  Show Profile  Send G Ellis an AOL message  Reply with Quote
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-71-Penton-Sachs-DKW-KTM-v-3778-Steel-Tank-Model-Seat-Saddle-Cover-/352160060809?hash=item51fe601589:g:TXkAAOSwb3NZr2lG&vxp=mtr Here might be a better option.

Edited by - G Ellis on 09/11/2017 1:29:07 PM
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BILL CAMPBELL
Advanced Member

Australia
165 Posts

Posted - 11/17/2017 :  8:51:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The first new stages have taken place. I have got the tank repainted etc. Its more than ok but not perfect. That's what you get with people who are not experienced with old bikes I guess. The other stage is getting the new crank put in. This has been done where a new steel rod has replaced an old alloy one. Al B supplied me with the correct length pin as well as the oversize B pin. When the new rod was pressed together it was found that the new correct length pin was a loose fit in the lobes that would not survive if the motor was reassembled and operated. Has anybody came across this situation and if so what was their remedy. Do I just buy another crank and try again? The person doing the rod reassembly is experienced in this procedure with a wide variety of motors. His suggestion is to TIG spot weld the pin to the lobes. He has done this in racing jet ski engines and found it to work successfully. I know this is an almost last resort fix. Bear in mind I want the motor to last but the bike won't be ridden in anger. Thanks in advance for your inputs.

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